Knockeen Farm: From Grass to Gold – World Cheese Award goes to Tullow, Co. Carlow
Nestled in a picturesque valley near Tullow, Co. Carlow, Knockeen Farm is an award-winning dairy enterprise known for its exceptional raw milk cheese. Partners Tom Burgess and Joseph O’Grady manage a 280-strong Jersey/Friesian cross herd and have garnered acclaim fo their grass-fed, handmade cheeses, which have won accolades including Gold at the 2024 World Cheese Awards,
Super Gold in 2023, Gold at the British Cheese Awards and Supreme Champion honours at the Irish Cheese Awards for four consecutive years.
Tom, who bought his portion of the farm in 1987, began cheesemaking as a solution to the restrictive milk quota system. After 15 years of milking and cheese production on his own, he partnered with his neighbour Joseph O’Grady following the abolition of quotas. This partnership catalysed significant growth and modernisation, enabling Knockeen Farm to expand its dairy and cheesemaking operations while maintaining its commitment to quality.
A focus on quality milk production
The farm’s Jersey/Friesian cross herd is central to its success. Chosen for their ability to produce high milk solids, these cows are perfectly suited to the seasonal calving system and consistently deliver milk with superior protein and fat content, essential for cheesemaking. The cows live on a diet of mainly grass, supplemented with dairy nuts in summer and silage in winter. Only the milk from the seven-month grazing season is used for cheese production.
“We only use grass-fed milk in our cheese, which gives it a unique flavour,” explains Tom. “Our Jersey/Friesian cross cows are excellent grazers and get back in calf easily, which is vital for our seasonal grazing system.”
Modernising for efficiency and excellence
In 2016, a new 20-point DeLaval ML2100 MidiLine swing-over parlour was installed, replacing the original setup that had served for 25 years. This upgrade brought features like automatic cluster removers, Evanza clusters, and a cluster flush system that automatically cleans each cluster with detergent, helping to maintain low somatic cell counts (SCC) and ensuring high milk quality—crucial for raw milk cheese production.
“The new system reduces labour, and ensures the cows are milked out completely. It’s a win-win for productivity and cow comfort,” says Tom. The cows have also benefited from the automatic cluster removers, which eliminate any overmilking.
In addition, a reliable milk transfer system to pump milk directly from the parlour to the cheese room with the assistance of a DeLaval FMP110 milk pump was added by their local DeLaval dealer, Ronan Kelly Farm Services.
The art and science of cheesemaking
Knockeen Farm’s cheese production is as meticulous as its dairy operations. Milk flows directly from the parlour to the cheese plant while still warm. The process involves adding starter cultures, rennet, and precise handling to create curd, which is then scalded, cheddared, salted, and pressed.
Each wheel is matured for 12 to 18 months in cotton cloth bindings, allowing the cheese to develop complex flavours. Tom personally oversees this process, ensuring the final product meets the highest standards.
The farm’s dedication has not gone unnoticed. Their cheese has become a staple at farmers’ markets, cheesemongers, and high-end restaurants.
Reliable partnership with local DeLaval dealer Ronan Kelly Farm Services
Tom and Joseph appreciate the collaborative approach and the unwavering support of their local DeLaval dealer, Ronan Kelly Farm Services. “Ronan and his team have been with us every step of the way,” says Tom. “From the parlour to the custom-built milk pumping system, everything is reliable, which is critical for our operation.”
The partnership with Ronan Kelly Farm Services spans many years, with Ronan and his team known for their high-quality service, adaptability, and expertise. In 2016, they installed the 20-point DeLaval swing-over parlour, and since then, have continued to provide innovative solutions. One of the key contributions is a stainless-steel milk pumping system that transfers warm milk directly to the cheese plant. This system includes a DeLaval FMP110 milk pump, ensuring the milk line is thoroughly cleaned while maintaining hygiene and quality as the milk travels uphill.
“They’re always at the end of a phone if we need anything,” Tom adds. In addition to setting up and maintaining the equipment, Ronan Kelly Farm Services supports the farm with a route van service, delivering detergents and teat dips every four weeks. “I prefer the small drums with detergents for the cheese plant, since storage space is limited,” says Tom. Joe instead prefers the 200-litre drums for the parlour.
Ronan Kelly, the DeLaval dealer for the area since 1997, started as an independent DeLaval fitter before he was offered the opportunity to establish his own dealership, covering Kildare, Wicklow, and Carlow. He is supported by his wife, Clare, their son, James, and a skilled team of employees. James joined the team full-time in 2020 after completing his degree in Sustainable Farm Management and Agri-Business, bringing with him a fresh perspective and commitment to innovation.
A vision for the future
As they look ahead, Tom and Joseph continue to refine and expand their operations at Knockeen Farm. Tom is focused on expanding the cheese plant, recently adding a new storage facility to simplify the weekly turning of cheese wheels, which can weigh up to 15 kg. A hand-operated forklift now makes the previously labour-intensive task easier. Additionally, a new roofed area has been constructed between the older shed and the milking parlour, expanding the feeding area for the cows during winter. We wish them continued success and encourage everyone to try their award-winning Coolattin and Mount Leinster Cheddar.
For more information on the DeLaval milking parlours, click here.